posted by proarturs on Feb 27, 2015:
I use some generic paste with ''nano technology'' and it works great. Actually much better than some of the more expensive pastes from Cooler Master. And it's the cheapest paste available where I live.
Avoiding the YLOD on an early model CECHH00 PS3
Avoiding the YLOD on an early model CECHH00 PS3
posted by General Plot on Feb 27, 2015:
If you really want to go the extra mile, lift the heat spreaders and replace the compound under them as well. Sony uses some ceramic based stuff that dries up and looks like rock solid chalk. Alot of times (especially on the first generation NAND PS3's with 90nm chips), just new thermal paste won't help, and you'll still see high temperatures, which is due to this.
If you really want to go the extra mile, lift the heat spreaders and replace the compound under them as well. Sony uses some ceramic based stuff that dries up and looks like rock solid chalk. Alot of times (especially on the first generation NAND PS3's with 90nm chips), just new thermal paste won't help, and you'll still see high temperatures, which is due to this.
Avoiding the YLOD on an early model CECHH00 PS3
posted by Mord.Fustang on Feb 27, 2015:
General Plot is right, but be extremely careful if you decide to go that route. It's not easy to remove those and you can damage your board if you don't do it properly. It's thermal glue under them - not paste. Thermal glue is hard as a rock. You'll need a heat gun on a low setting to warm the glue up first, or a hairdryer would probably work too for the job.
You can probably find some videos or something to help you out online.
General Plot is right, but be extremely careful if you decide to go that route. It's not easy to remove those and you can damage your board if you don't do it properly. It's thermal glue under them - not paste. Thermal glue is hard as a rock. You'll need a heat gun on a low setting to warm the glue up first, or a hairdryer would probably work too for the job.
You can probably find some videos or something to help you out online.
Avoiding the YLOD on an early model CECHH00 PS3
posted by FireAza on Feb 27, 2015:
I'm not super comfortable removing the heatspreaders themselves, I've heard is very risky just to remove them and also risky to apply the thermal paste. I think I'll just stick with replacing the thermal compound between the heatspreader and heatsink, thanks. Maybe if the system was overheating badly, I might do that, but it's running fine and I just want to keep it that way for the future.
I'm not super comfortable removing the heatspreaders themselves, I've heard is very risky just to remove them and also risky to apply the thermal paste. I think I'll just stick with replacing the thermal compound between the heatspreader and heatsink, thanks. Maybe if the system was overheating badly, I might do that, but it's running fine and I just want to keep it that way for the future.
Avoiding the YLOD on an early model CECHH00 PS3
posted by afccarl1994 on Feb 28, 2015:
Mine's in a white tube.
FireAza said:
The one in the silver or white tube? I have the MX-4 in a white tube and it seems pretty runny.
Avoiding the YLOD on an early model CECHH00 PS3
posted by General Plot on Feb 28, 2015:
It can be risky, but if you're patient and careful, it's not too difficult of a job. The RSX is easy, as it can be popped off with prying (place some card under the heat spreader of the RSX on the side of it that faces the Cell, then use a tool to pry it off. It won't take much force, and it'll pop off cleanly. The Cell is a bit trickier. I use a feeler gauge with a sharpened edge to cut the epoxy that holds it in place. Obviously, be careful not to scrape any onboard components as you go, which can be damaged or scraped off pretty easily if you're not careful.
It can be risky, but if you're patient and careful, it's not too difficult of a job. The RSX is easy, as it can be popped off with prying (place some card under the heat spreader of the RSX on the side of it that faces the Cell, then use a tool to pry it off. It won't take much force, and it'll pop off cleanly. The Cell is a bit trickier. I use a feeler gauge with a sharpened edge to cut the epoxy that holds it in place. Obviously, be careful not to scrape any onboard components as you go, which can be damaged or scraped off pretty easily if you're not careful.
Avoiding the YLOD on an early model CECHH00 PS3
posted by FireAza on Feb 28, 2015:
Still sounds pretty tricky... I think I'll do that if this system starts overheating even with the thermal compound changed. Speaking of which, what's the best application method for the PS3? Spreading or squashing? Squashing is best for PCs and I saw a youtube video that said this was also best for the PS3. The video also said you only need need a small circle for the PS3 since the component itself behind the heatspreader is small. What do you guys think? When applying thermal compound on a PC, the goal is to have the thermal compound cover as much of the head spreader as possible.
Still sounds pretty tricky... I think I'll do that if this system starts overheating even with the thermal compound changed. Speaking of which, what's the best application method for the PS3? Spreading or squashing? Squashing is best for PCs and I saw a youtube video that said this was also best for the PS3. The video also said you only need need a small circle for the PS3 since the component itself behind the heatspreader is small. What do you guys think? When applying thermal compound on a PC, the goal is to have the thermal compound cover as much of the head spreader as possible.
Avoiding the YLOD on an early model CECHH00 PS3
posted by Eviltaco64 on Mar 1, 2015:
Putting any significant investments or preventative maintenance on a CECHH isn't really worth the trouble man.
It's not a very expensive model, nothing really stands out about it (unless you like pre-3.15 OtherOS), and the hardware is already pretty solid. It should get the job done quite well, and live well past the point that stores are littered with cheap PS3s.
It is kind of notable in that it was the first PS3 with a KES-KEM-410ACA. The 2nd-gen PS3 BD is much stronger.
Meanwhile, CECHG could very well be the absolute worst PS3 model to have. It's the first model lacking all the extra features (PS2, SACD, chrome, media card slots, extra USB ports etc), and the last model to have the unreliable 1st-gen KES-KEM-400A.
Anything CECHA-CECHE? Lead reball, PSU mod (if the mood strikes), proper cooling mods, HDD upgrade (iirc 1.5 TB max internal), CFW, Multiman, and conservative use of the BD.
Putting any significant investments or preventative maintenance on a CECHH isn't really worth the trouble man.
It's not a very expensive model, nothing really stands out about it (unless you like pre-3.15 OtherOS), and the hardware is already pretty solid. It should get the job done quite well, and live well past the point that stores are littered with cheap PS3s.
It is kind of notable in that it was the first PS3 with a KES-KEM-410ACA. The 2nd-gen PS3 BD is much stronger.
Meanwhile, CECHG could very well be the absolute worst PS3 model to have. It's the first model lacking all the extra features (PS2, SACD, chrome, media card slots, extra USB ports etc), and the last model to have the unreliable 1st-gen KES-KEM-400A.
Anything CECHA-CECHE? Lead reball, PSU mod (if the mood strikes), proper cooling mods, HDD upgrade (iirc 1.5 TB max internal), CFW, Multiman, and conservative use of the BD.
Avoiding the YLOD on an early model CECHH00 PS3
posted by General Plot on Mar 1, 2015:
Not to mention with the CECHG being the last model to use 90nm arch on both the Cell and RSX, so it has a high amount of heat (and a PSU that produces a high amount of heat), with none of the advantages of the other NAND consoles before it. While the CECHH is the first NOR model (makes it easier to downgrade if you decide to), and as mentioned, the much more reliable KES-410A lens as well. I've had my CECHH since new back in 2008 and it's still on it's first lens. It has been reballed (after a yellow light back in October 2012), and now has a leaded solder BGA, and it's still going strong today. It's funny about the lens though, as when they made the slim and the KES-450A, the lens was just as unreliable as the first generation 400A's.
Not to mention with the CECHG being the last model to use 90nm arch on both the Cell and RSX, so it has a high amount of heat (and a PSU that produces a high amount of heat), with none of the advantages of the other NAND consoles before it. While the CECHH is the first NOR model (makes it easier to downgrade if you decide to), and as mentioned, the much more reliable KES-410A lens as well. I've had my CECHH since new back in 2008 and it's still on it's first lens. It has been reballed (after a yellow light back in October 2012), and now has a leaded solder BGA, and it's still going strong today. It's funny about the lens though, as when they made the slim and the KES-450A, the lens was just as unreliable as the first generation 400A's.
Avoiding the YLOD on an early model CECHH00 PS3
posted by FireAza on Mar 4, 2015:
Okay, I've got the PS3 opened up and it's a good thing too, the thermal compound has gone a rather dry and crumbly texture. One advantage of this is the grease won't coat everything within 100 meters and be impossible to be rid of like the last time I opened up a PS3. Anyway, I've gotten it apart and I notice it's using the 15 blade fan. Definitely a good idea to replace it with the 19 blade version and I've just ordered one from Yahoo Auctions. It's the entire assembly though, not just the fan and I was thinking, this heatsink looks a lot beefier than the two cooling fin blocks setup of what I have now. Would it be better to also replace the heatsink too? Would a cooling assembly from a launch model PS3 even fit into a later model one?
Okay, I've got the PS3 opened up and it's a good thing too, the thermal compound has gone a rather dry and crumbly texture. One advantage of this is the grease won't coat everything within 100 meters and be impossible to be rid of like the last time I opened up a PS3. Anyway, I've gotten it apart and I notice it's using the 15 blade fan. Definitely a good idea to replace it with the 19 blade version and I've just ordered one from Yahoo Auctions. It's the entire assembly though, not just the fan and I was thinking, this heatsink looks a lot beefier than the two cooling fin blocks setup of what I have now. Would it be better to also replace the heatsink too? Would a cooling assembly from a launch model PS3 even fit into a later model one?