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posted by FireAza on Feb 10, 2015:

Hey guys! I recently picked up a CECHH00 model PS3 to replace my temperamental launch model PS3. The original plan was to get a late model fat PS3, the ones with thinner chips. But I found this model in as-new condition for a good price, it's a nice-looking white model and it's also made in Japan. From what I've read, this model does use a thinner GPU and a less hot PSU than my launch model, so it shouldn't be as prone to the YLOD issue. However, since it still is an early model I'm worried that it might still YLOD in the future.

I found this long guide to preventing the YLOD, and it seems to come down to the following points: Replace the thermal compound, replace the fan if it's not a 19 blade one and replace the PSU if it's the older one. Point one is a bit of a worry for me, as changing the thermal compound was the nail in the coffin for my launch model PS3, from what you guys mentioned on the topic I made, removing the heatsink probably stressed the solder and made it crack. That guide doesn't even mention anything like that, so I'm not sure how much of a common issue it is. It does mention that removing the heatsink on my model is more difficult than other models and could result in making things worse. I'm not sure if they mean it genuinely is difficult to put the heatsink back on properly or that there's just a few things you need to make sure you do when you're reassembling. For the PSU, is my model using one of the better, later ones or is it still one of the early ones and should be upgraded? Based on what the guide said, there's only really two PSU models of interest, the launch one and the later, more efficient one.

What do you guys think?
 

posted by Pikkon on Feb 10, 2015:

The best way to prevent the ylod is to get a reball.
What I did on my buddys ps3 was heatgun it,replace the paste and installed a potentiometer to adjust the fan.

Sounds like you have the 40gig model,the psu on that one doesn't get that hot.
 

posted by proarturs on Feb 10, 2015:

I would replace the thermal paste and the fan. I wouldn't touch the PSU, it rarely causes problems. I don't think that your console will fail so soon if it's in good condition. If it does fail, just get a reball, reflows don't last long.
 

posted by s8n on Feb 11, 2015:

you could do something similar to what i am doing , Fan mod that is externally powered and i have flashed CFW not only for games but i can control the stock Fan speed of the internal Fan.


btw avoid the Fan mod with a Potentiometer it ruined one of my Slims








 

posted by FireAza on Feb 11, 2015:

I have found a few guys on Yahoo Auction who does YLOD repair, but I can't find mention if he replaces the solder balls with a lead-based one. He says his shop also does manufacturing, so I'd hope he'd be smart enough to know this. Otherwise, he'd have previous customers coming back a few years later complaining that it failed again! proarturs' idea of only repalacing the thermal paste and fan and leaving the YLOD repair for if that happens sounds good, but again, I'm a little worried about breaking the solder while I'm removing the heatsink though, any tips to avoid this, or is this just not a common problem? Also, any idea what that guide I linked to means by

"If you want to change the fan or thermal paste on PS3 models CECHH-CECHQ, you need to be very careful. The reason is that performing either of these tips requires the heatsink to be removed, which can be quite difficult to reattach on these PS3 models. If it is not re-assembled properly, thermal conduction between the CPU/GPU; the heatsink could be compromised, and you would then be worse off than you were to begin with. I have read many accounts in the PlayStation.com forums, where people have reported that this issue happen to them."

s8n: That kinda spoils the look of the console if you ask me
 

posted by Pikkon on Feb 11, 2015:

s8n said:






you could do something similar to what i am doing , Fan mod that is externally powered and i have flashed CFW not only for games but i can control the stock Fan speed of the internal Fan.


btw avoid the Fan mod with a Potentiometer it ruined one of my Slims

When I did one I used a 250k pot and it works just fine,did you have the fan running on 12v the whole time.



And FireAza,what FW are you running,if you could install custom firmware you could control the fan via software.
 

posted by s8n on Feb 11, 2015:

i followed a Youtube clip on how someone else did their POT mod and it worked initially , then i raised the speed via the POT and pop something went out.


ive actually been working on what went out with someone from PS3hax forums and the person has come to the conclusion the syscon is gone
 

posted by HEX1GON on Feb 11, 2015:

That comic sans though...
 

posted by FireAza on Feb 11, 2015:

Pikkon said:






And FireAza,what FW are you running,if you could install custom firmware you could control the fan via software.

Latest version (4.3 I think). But controlling the fan seems unnecessary, it seems to be doing it's job just fine! I'm just looking to patch up the flaws in Sony's design of the PS3 that eventually kills it. Using lead-free solder was the biggest mistake, but it seems like the thermal paste they used was poor quality too. The fan working harder would also help, but increasing the amount of heat being delivered to the fan would also accomplish a similar goal.
 

posted by wilykat on Feb 11, 2015:

HEX1GON said:






That comic sans though...

He's not from a fortune 500 company he can damn well use whatever font he wants.